Seatpost – Make sure that you have the right size seat post for your seat tube. 26.8, 27.0, 27.2, 27.4, 28.6, etc…. If your seatpost seems too tight and won’t move, take it out and make sure it is not bent. Some lube in advance may help it's removal. Also, check the size on the bottom of the post and check the specs for your bike. If it is hard to put in, it may be too big. If it seems loose, it may be too small. If it is tto big, you may see the top of the seat tube start to crack. If it is too small, it will not stay where you adjust it, and may twist when riding. It is a good idea to lube the seatpost with a little bike grease or vaseline before installing/replacing it. Also, make sure the quick release or seat post bolt tightens properly. Brake Pads – Double check your pads to make sure that they are lined up properly with the rim, and have a little toe-in (about 1 mm or so). This insures that the forward edge of the pad contacts the rims first, and helps prevent brake squeal. If the pads are loose and do not line up properly with the rim, they may rub a hole in your sidewall, and you are looking at a “blowout” down the trail. Pick up your front or rear of the bike, and spin the tires to make sure they are not rubbing against your brake shoe. Adjust cable tension, or location of pad on the arm to correct if needed. Spokes – Even with rim tape properly installed, replacement spokes that are too long will give you un-ending flats. The hole will occur on the inside of the tube and at the same spot every time - a tell tale sign that the spoke is too long or has metal burs on it… Pedals – Don’t trash your pedals when installing – or worse yet destroy the crank arms threads. The rule here is simple. The pedals are labeled R and L. The right pedal screws in clockwise as you would expect. The left pedal, however, screws in counter clockwise. Just remember that the left one is WEIRD !! Keep in mind same rule for removal… Tubes – Have you ever changed your tube in a hurry, and then got another flat minutes later in a different spot… the culprit may be debris inside of the tire. To avoid this, meticulously clean the inside of the tire and check for debris before re-installing the tube by feeling the inside of the tire. Give it a thorough feel with your fingers to make sure that the thorn you ran over is not still stuck in the tire. Crashing – If you have a crash, check for bent or broken parts (first on yourself – then your bike), don’t just ride away. Of course it is good news if your bike will still ride and you are unhurt. But if you still have some riding to do, inspect all parts of the bike for cracks, breaks, loose bolts, etc. after you regain your composure. You may discover some broken or damaged parts so that you can adjust them or ride appropriately. Also, it is a good idea to take a 5-10 minute break to recover and regain your composure... Cables – Sounds like a small deal, but make sure that all of your cables have the little caps on the ends. These cable ends can prevent you cable from unwinding, and save you from a nasty puncture wound if you happen to impale your finger, leg, or hand on the end. Front wheel – This is EZ… and a no-brainer. If you have the front wheel off your bike, make sure that you put it on and properly tighten the quick release before you ride. Otherwise the first log may be your last!! Once you forget to do this simple item, you will never forget it again!! Wheels – Make sure that your wheels spin free, and are not warped and rubbing up against your frame or brake pads when you spin them. This should be checked before every ride, otherwise you will just be pedaling harder during your ride, will wear down your pads, and may wear a hole in the tire sidewall. Correct by adjusting brake cable tension, or adjust pads on brake arm, or by truing your wheel. Chain – Make sure that you have the proper chain width for your bike and clean and lubed properly. Make sure the cable tension is correct. One size chain fits the 7 and 8 speed bikes. The 9 speed bikes use a narrower chain. Mixing up the two by using a 9 speed chain on a 7 or 8 speed cog will cause shifting problems, and ruin your cogs and chainring. If the cogs and chainring are worn, a new chain may not mesh properly even if it is the correct width. You may need to replace the cogs and chainring along with the chain... To prevent this, get a chain gauge which measures cahin stretch and replace your chain when out of spec... |
